To get the existing steps/mm value, send the command M503. In order to calculate what our new steps/mm value will be, we need to know the existing steps/mm value, and the under/over extrusion rate. Fortunately the way to solve this is fairly easy. If it is more or less than 20mm, then it means that your printer is over or under extruding.
If this is exactly 20mm, congratulations! Your extruder steps/mm are perfectly calibrated. Measure the distance between the point that you marked before we started, and where the plastic enters the extruder (the same point from which you measured the initial 120mm).Once the machine has finished extruding the 100mm, switch off the hotend heater.It also helps to take the temperature out of the equation, again by reducing the effects of pressure in the nozzle. The reason for extruding so slowly in this step is to ensure that the resistance of the plastic further down in the hotend does not affect how much is fed in by the stepper motor. This will take 120 seconds until it's finished extruding. Extrude 100mm of plastic with the command G1 E100.Set the extrusion feedrate to 50mm/minute with the command G1 F50.This will ensure that your printer is interpreting the following extrusion commands in relative mode. Heat up your hotend to your regular printing temperature and ensure that the nozzle is in a position above the bed where it can freely extrude filament.Connect your computer to your printer and open up a program that allows you to send individual gcode commands to it (like Pronterface, Simplify 3D, Repetier Host, or Octoprint web interface).First measure out 120mm of filament from where it enters your extruder and mark it with a pen or marker.Then we'll measure how much plastic it extruded and see if it actually was 100mm - pretty simple! To calibrate the steps/mm value, we tell the printer to extrude 100mm of plastic. Leave the extruder steps/mm as stock, and go straight to the extrusion multiplier calibration step.įor any other extruder styles like the classic hobbed gear and bearing set up, you should follow the steps below calibrate your extruder steps/mm. This includes the Prusa MK3 and MK3S which have bondtech gears built in inside.
In this case, you should follow the manufacturer’s specification. First, we want to sort out how much plastic is being fed in to the hotend (regardless of any values like extrusion width, extrusion multiplier, filament diameter etc), and then move on to how the printer is behaving in terms of the plastic actually being pushed out and laid down.įor users with a bondtech or similar extruder, I would recommend skipping the extruder steps/mm calibration as these extruders already come with very specific recommended values. There are two parts to calibrating your extruder - tuning your extruder steps/mm value, and tuning your extrusion multiplier.
Having your extruder properly calibrated is essential for perfecting your print quality, and this guide will walk you through the entire process from beginning to end.
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